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Nestled between two steep terraced hills that descend in abrupt cliffs to the sea, the historic borough of Riomaggiore strikes visitors with its tall vertically built colourful houses. While strolling amidst the tight network of alleyways, the village’s archways and staircases offer charming shifts of light and shade. All of the houses have two entrances: one at the façade on the street level, the other at the rear at the level of the higher road. In the 1500s, these structures guaranteed an escape route in case of Saracen attacks. The first history of Riomaggiore dates back to 1239, when the populations of the Carpena region vowed fidelity to the Genoese. Then again in 1251 when the inhabitants of the small fractions along the coast of Casen, Cacinagora, Saricò and Lemen decided to join at the mouth of the “river” to found Riomaggiore.
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In the nineteenth century, the population of the village was around 3000 people. This is the epoch that enchanted the Florentine painter, Telemaco Signorini, who represented significant ties to the Macchiaioli movement (a school of 19th century Tuscan painters). In his paintings, depicted by dark and sombre hidden angles of the alleyways, you see how much this village enchanted Signorini.
In the high part of town you may visit the Church of San Giovanni Battista. It was built in 1340 with a basilica plan made up of different styled columns and with two gothic doors. It is worthwhile to visit the oratory of Santa Maria Assunta, built in 1500, the oratory of San Antonio Abbate and the oratory of Saint Rocco.
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